FOOD & TRAVEL LOG
Travel and dine with Marilia Piperoglou
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Για Ελληνικά πατήστε εδώ.
Volos and Pelion, the mountain of the Centaurs, make up a tantalising gastronomic destination inspired by the natural beauty and wealth of its land, forests, and sea. It is a magical place graced by Mother Nature and widely written about by past and contemporary novelists.
Pelion is also a protected wildlife area included in the Natura network. Protected wild flora includes Crocus veluchensis, Lilium chalcedonicum (endemic of the Balkan region), Campanula incurva, Digitalis grandiflora and Sideritis. Protected wild fauna includes several species of bats, Lacerta trilineata, Muscardinus avellanarius, Mediterranean turtles, and Pinna nobilis.
In Volos, gastronomic “meze” are the epicentre of the food scene and are served to accompany tsipouro. Their variety, taste and originality could easily beat Spanish “tapas”. Places that serve tsipouro, called “tsipouradiko”, can be found along the walkway by the port. Because the variety of “meze” is wide, it is best to visit a “tsipouradiko” with friends to taste as much as possible and enhance the experience! In Thessaly, every round of tsipouro comes with a different variety of “meze”, starting with seafood and fish.
During my travels, I have been particularly impressed by a type of sea anemone fried in batter (“kolitsiani”), fried monkfish tails (“peskandritsa”), fried fresh anchovies (“gavros”) sprinkled with vinegar and rocky-shaped “fouskes”, an iodine-rich seashell eaten raw. If you are lucky, you may also find sea urchins, clams and other seasonal seashells. Meat-based “meze” follow the tsipouro rounds.
Other tasty traditional meat dishes include:
“Trahana,” which has a porridge-like texture and is cooked with sausages; beef casserole with quince and chestnuts; rooster casserole in tomato sauce; and homemade pasta.
Stuffed courgette flowers. The flowers are cut early in the morning and then stuffed with rice, fresh herbs, and minced meat. They are served in a delicious egg and lemon sauce.
On the Aegean coast, the seaside villages of Chorefto, Agios Ioannis, Damouchari and Papa Nero stand out for their magnificent beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters. Marvellous Fakistra and Mylopotamos are also a must-see.
Tsagarada village is a jewel in its own right, built on the lush green slopes of the Pelion. It has 4 districts, each with its church and central square, all featuring enormous centenarian plane trees and fresh running water. The plane tree in Agia Paraskevi is considered 1000 years old and is one of the oldest trees in Europe.
While visiting, it’s worth taking a walk along the stone-paved footpaths of this village, known as “Kalderimi”.
Upon returning, while heading towards Volos, you must stop at Milies, Vizitsa and Pinakates. Milies is famous for the old single-track steam railway, known as “Moutzouris”, which used to connect the village to Volos. The railway offers a lovely slow ride in spring with glorious views of the Pagasitikos Bay.
In Vizitsa and Pinakates, both protected, historical villages, you will admire imposing Ottoman-style stone mansions or choose to stay at one of the splendid stately homes, which have been restored with respect and converted to beautiful hotels with character.
Last but not least are the villages of Agios Lavrentis and Agios Georgios, facing Pagasitikos Bay and accessible via the country road connecting Volos with Milies.
From the gastronomic scene of Pelion I would particularly point out:
“Tsitsiravla”, a pickle made from the young leaves of the plant Pistacia terebinthus to perfectly accompany tsipouro, wild asparagus (boiled or in an omelette), wild greens and egg stir fry and of course wild mushrooms which are in abundance in spring and autumn (boletes, Caesar mushrooms, chanterelles, Lactarius, etc.) in the chestnut-rich forests of Pelion.
Among meat dishes, the following are a must-try:
“Spentzofai”, made with fried peppers, tomatoes, spices and the traditional Volos sausage. “Boubari” is ewe gut stuffed with minced offal, rice, minced meat, spices, onions and oregano. One could say it is Volos’ answer to the Scottish Haggis!
Other tasty traditional meat dishes include:
“Trahana” has a porridge-like texture and is cooked with sausages, beef casserole with quince and chestnuts, rooster casserole in tomato sauce, and homemade pasta.
Stuffed courgette flowers. The flowers are cut early in the morning and then stuffed with rice, fresh herbs, and minced meat. They are served in a delicious egg and lemon sauce.
Fern shoots (hand-picked in early spring from the forest). They are boiled and served with olive oil and lemon juice or made into crispy fritters. I have tried these in Agios Lavrentios and Agios Georgios. Alternatively, in Pinakates and Vizitsa, you should try fresh oregano fritters made from wild oregano shoots in early spring, when the herb is at its most fragrant.
Of course, one must not forget the delicious Pelion pies, made with homemade filo pastry and filled with courgettes, spring greens and herbs from nature, mushrooms, etc. They are a relish!
Cheese and dairy:
Feta, kaseri, manouri and galotiri.
Wine:
The local grape variety is “fraoula”, a pale red variety.
Other produce:
Zagora apples, the unique “firikia” apples native to Greece that make a delicious preserve and have various patisserie uses, quince, chestnuts, walnuts, figs, mulberries, blueberries, and raspberries. Fruit and nuts are used by the agricultural cooperatives of Pelion villages to make excellent preserves.
