May 8th
High in the rugged White Mountains (Lefka Ori) of Crete, at more than 1,200 meters above sea level, stands the small stone chapel of Saint John. Every year on May 8th, this remote and breathtaking location becomes the heart of a celebration that blends faith, tradition, and Cretan hospitality. Nestled among steep cliffs, pine forests, and alpine meadows, the chapel offers sweeping views from the mountain peaks down to the Libyan Sea, making the journey there as unforgettable as the feast itself.
The Journey and the Liturgy
Reaching the chapel is part of the experience. Pilgrims ascend mountain paths on foot or with pack animals, retracing the steps of their ancestors. The day begins with a solemn service inside the humble stone church, surrounded by dramatic scenery that feels untouched by time.
How to get there:
- From Anopolis: The route passes through a beautiful pine forest, one of the few in Crete, and offers magnificent views of the Libyan Sea and the southern slopes of the White Mountains. The journey covers about 5 kilometres.
- From Chora Sfakion: Visitors can embark on a scenic hike through rugged terrain, experiencing the natural beauty and tranquillity of the area firsthand.
- Local guides or mule transport are available, adding a traditional touch to the journey.
A Celebration of Flavours
After the liturgy, the mountain plateau transforms into a vibrant feast. Long tables are laden with the flavours of Sfakia:
- Charcoal-roasted goat or lamb, seasoned simply with salt, oregano, and lemon
- Local cheeses: anthotyro, xinomizithra, and graviera
- Homemade breads and rusks, freshly baked and hearty
- Wild greens and aromatic herbs gathered from the surrounding slopes
- Raki and wine, poured generously as music fills the air
Lyres and lutes set the rhythm, dancers link hands, and improvised mantinades echo across the mountains. Yet at the heart of it all is the shared meal, food that tells the story of place, memory, and community.
Indicative Program of the Feast
Morning:
- 07:00 – Arrival of pilgrims and visitors
- 08:00 – Divine Liturgy at Agios Ioannis Chapel
- 09:30 – Blessing of offerings and local products
Late Morning – Early Afternoon:
- 10:00 – Traditional mountain hike or nature walk in the White Mountains
- 11:30 – Communal gathering at the plateau with music and dance
Afternoon:
- 12:00 – Feast begins: tasting of local specialties (roast lamb/goat, cheeses, breads, greens, raki, wine)
- 13:00 – Live Cretan music and dancing, mantinades shared among participants
- 15:00 – Free time for photography, hiking, and exploring the surrounding trails
Evening:
- 16:00 – Gradual departure or continuation of informal gatherings
- 17:00 – End of the official program, visitors return to Anopolis or Chora Sfakion
A Living Tradition for Visitors
For locals, the feast is a cherished tradition. For visitors, it is a rare opportunity to experience Cretan life at its most authentic. Around open fires and communal tables, guests are welcomed not only with food and drink, but also with the warmth of a centuries-old tradition.
Whether you choose to hike or drive, the journey to Agios Ioannis Chapel is an adventure that combines natural beauty, cultural heritage, and spiritual significance. Several hiking trails in the area offer breathtaking views and lead to other notable sites in Sfakia.
The Soul of Crete on a Plate
The Feast of Saint John is more than a religious celebration — it is a journey into the soul, the flavours, and the landscape of Crete. Visitors leave not only with memories of the mountain scenery and sacred rituals but also with the taste, music, and hospitality that make Sfakia truly unforgettable.
