Lagana recipe by G. Grigoriadis

From Childhood Memories to Culinary Traditions: Lagana vs. Focaccia

Since childhood, I remember being caught in the middle of a culinary rivalry between two gastronomic cultures…

On Clean Monday, this “battle” took centre stage, featuring my Messinian grandmother with her traditional Lagana on one side and my Italian grandmother Mariucci with her classic focaccia, seasoned with salt and rosemary, on the other.

Greece vs. Italy— and we, of course, enjoyed the benefits!

Even after all these years, I still can’t decide which one I liked best, but I remember that by the end of the day, not a single crumb remained from either.

This year, I decided to dive into the village archives and found the old lagana recipe, which I now share with you, almost in its original form…

Of course, the ingredients back then, even down to my grandmother’s “masterful” kneading in a clay vessel, must have given it a different taste.

Lagana Recipe

Ingredients

 

• 500g strong flour (or bread flour)
• 100g fine semolina
• 300ml lukewarm water
• 100ml corn oil
• 8g dry yeast
• 1 tsp sugar
• 2 tbsp tahini
• 4 tbsp ouzo
• 1 tbsp salt

For the crust:

• 2 tbsp warm water
• 2 tbsp honey
• 1 cup white sesame seeds

Instructions:

1. In a mixing bowl, combine the yeast, sugar, and a small amount of water, stirring until dissolved. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for half an hour until the yeast activates. It may not be good if it doesn’t rise, so repeat the process.

2. Sift the flour, add the semolina and mix. Then add the salt, tahini, ouzo, flour, and oil, and knead with a dough hook for ten minutes, gradually adding the remaining water.

3. Once the dough becomes smooth, transfer it from the mixer bowl to a floured surface, dusting your hands to prevent sticking. Cover with a towel and let it rise for 1.5 to 2 hours.

4. I usually place it in an oven, preheating it to the lowest temperature for ten minutes, then turning it off so it stays warm but not too hot.

5. Once the dough has doubled, transfer it to a floured surface and divide it into two portions.

6. Preheat the oven to 200°C (392°F).

7. Place the dough on parchment paper, sprinkle with some flour, and stretch it with oiled hands into a thin, oval shape. Repeat with the second portion and let them rest, covered, for another 30 minutes.

8. Mix the warm water and honey in a small bowl, then brush it over the lagana. Sprinkle generously with sesame seeds and use your fingers to create dimples across the surface, mimicking the traditional appearance of lagana.

9. Bake for 25-30 minutes, depending on your oven.

10. Remove from the oven with the parchment paper and brush again with the honey mixture for a glossy finish.

11. Let cool and tear apart by hand…

Serving Suggestion:

Enjoy warm with olives, dipping pieces into your homemade taramosalata!

Grandmother’s Secret:

She used to soak anise seeds in water to infuse the dough with a subtle aroma before straining it and incorporating it into it.
Modern versions of Lagana often include caramelized onions, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, or herbs like oregano and garlic—ultimately, it’s up to personal taste!
Because, as they say, everyone has their own opinion when it comes to taste!
As for the texture, crust, and crumb—I nailed it! But something was missing…
Perhaps the rivalry between grandmothers, the laughter, childhood teasing, my mother’s taramosalata—or maybe all of it together…

Happy Clean Monday!