Text and Photos By Giorgio Grigor
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Bardouniotikos rooster with hilopites is a culinary gem from the mountainous Mani region. It embodies the rich, comforting flavours of the Greek countryside and reflects rustic Greek tradition, unlike the rooster pasta you might find in urban taverns.
In the rugged Taygetus Mountains, roosters don’t crow with a delicate tone—they echo the hearty, earthy spirit of the land. These resilient birds, raised in the wild, require slow and careful cooking to unlock their full tenderness. Once you savour the Bardouniotikos rooster, every other dish will feel like a distant memory.
A Traditional Taste of Laconia
Originating from Bardounia in northern Taygetus, this dish features free-range rooster or village chicken slow-braised in a rich, aromatic tomato sauce. Pearl onions, Messinian Sfela cheese, and Kalamata olives add layers of flavour, while cinnamon, allspice, cloves, and bay leaves provide warmth and depth.
The dish is completed with local hilopites—rustic pasta—or hearty potatoes, which absorb the rich sauce beautifully. For a twist, try adding kritharaki (orzo) during the final stages for a Sunday giouvetsi that’s nothing short of heavenly.
A Journey Through Taygetus and Parnon
Our adventure through the Taygetus and Parnon mountains began at the Manares tollgate. Scenic roads led us through picturesque villages nestled in verdant hills. We passed historic sites like the Trikaliotis Tower and admired the stunning landscape of pine, chestnut, and fir trees.
Eventually, we reached Karyes and stopped for a meal at the famed Taverna Areti. Though late for lunch, we were greeted with warm hospitality and a spread of local dishes. However, it was the Bardouniotikos rooster that truly stole the show.
The Recipe from Taverna Areti
Lovingly shared by Mrs. Areti, this recipe encapsulates generations of culinary wisdom.
Ingredients
- One rooster (approx. 2 kg), cut into portions
- 1 kg pearl onions, peeled
- Two garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1/3 cup olive oil
- One glass of dry white wine
- Five ripe tomatoes, grated
- 1 tbsp coarse sea salt
- Six whole peppercorns
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Five allspice berries
- Three cinnamon sticks
- 8–10 cloves
- Five bay leaves
- 500 g village-style hilopites or orzo
- Water, as needed
- 100 g Sfela cheese, crumbled
- 100 g Kefalograviera, cubed
- 15–20 Kalamata olives
Instructions
1. Prepare the Rooster
- Wash and portion the rooster. Heat olive oil in a skillet and brown the pieces until golden. Transfer to a roasting pan.
2. Sauté the Vegetables
- In the same skillet, sauté the pearl onions until lightly browned. Add the garlic and cook briefly.
3. Deglaze
- Pour in the wine, letting the alcohol evaporate. Transfer the onions, garlic, and wine to the roasting pan.
4. Flavor and Simmer
- Add grated tomatoes, spices, and enough water to cover the rooster. Cover and bake at a low temperature for about 1.5 hours or until tender.
5. Cook the Pasta
- Ten minutes before the dish is done, add the hilites with enough water to cook them. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking.
6. Final Touch
- Stir in the cheeses and olives, gently shaking the pan to incorporate the flavours. Let the dish rest for 5 minutes before serving.
7. Serve
- Serve warm with crusty bread to soak up the flavorful sauce.
Variations
- Giouvetsi: Substitute hilopites with orzo and adjust water as needed.
- With Potatoes: Add thick-cut potatoes at the beginning for a hearty twist.
A Memorable Farewell
After the meal, we visited Vamvakou, where the Stavros Niarchos Foundation is revitalizing the region. The cosy Rouga of Vamvakou guesthouse welcomed us with traditional Greek hospitality, and the following day, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast by Angeliki and Panagiotis.
Our journey continued through Polydroso and Kastanitsa, ending at the Moustos wetland near Paralio Astros.
Happy cooking, and may your exploration of Greece’s hidden treasures bring you inspiration and unforgettable memories!
