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High above the Aegean, where the mountains of Amorgos meet the endless blue, a small whitewashed chapel clings to the ridge of Krikellos. Once a year, on September 14, the rocky trail that winds up from the village of Lagkada comes alive with footsteps, hymns, and laughter. The destination: the Feast of the Holy Cross — one of the island’s most soulful and unforgettable celebrations.
✝️ A Sacred Ascent
The journey begins long before dawn. Pilgrims set out under a sky jewelled with stars, climbing for nearly three hours along a rugged path. For some, it is a matter of tradition; for others, an act of devotion or even a personal vow. The higher they climb, the quieter the world becomes — until the chapel of the Holy Cross appears, stark and humble against the vast horizon.
As the sun rises, painting the sea in shades of gold and violet, the chapel fills with the voices of the faithful. The Divine Liturgy, simple and moving, unfolds within its stone walls. Incense drifts into the crisp mountain air, and the collective prayer carries a resonance that seems to blend with the cliffs and the wind.
Here, faith is not just ritual — it is woven into the landscape itself.
🍲 A Feast for the Body and the Soul
If the liturgy nourishes the spirit, the feast that follows nourishes both body and heart. For hours, villagers have tended to great iron cauldrons where goat stew with pilaf simmers, its aroma mingling with the scent of mountain thyme and the sea breeze. When the service ends, the meal is blessed by the priest and shared among everyone present — locals, wanderers, strangers.
This act of sharing is more than hospitality; it is a ritual of unity. Each portion carries the same blessing, reminding everyone that the feast is a table without boundaries. Alongside the savoury stew come honey cakes with orange and walnut, delicate and fragrant, a sweet reminder of the island’s generosity.
Later, as the gathering returns to Lagkada and its neighbouring Tholaria, the celebration continues in the village cafés. Glasses of raki are raised, violins and lutes strike up familiar tunes, and platters of Amorgian pasteli on lemon leaves circulate — sticky, nutty, and perfumed with citrus. It is here that the night stretches on with song, dance, and laughter.
🌄 The Magic of Krikellos
What makes the Feast of the Holy Cross at Krikellos so unforgettable is not only the faith, or the food, or the music — but the way these elements converge. The pilgrimage, the sunrise, the blessing, and the shared meal create a tapestry that binds visitors and islanders alike.
In that fleeting moment, standing on the ridge of Krikellos with the Aegean stretching endlessly at your feet, you understand that this is more than a festival. It is a pilgrimage into the soul of Amorgos — a union of tradition, devotion, and the simple joy of breaking bread together.
✨ To witness the Feast of the Holy Cross at Krikellos is to carry away not just memories, but a more profound sense of belonging — to the island, to its people, and to a timeless rhythm of faith and celebration.
